Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Ganesh – at his best

Sep 11th, 20092009-09-11T04:01:25ZM jS, Y | By Wil Robinson | Read more in: Feature

Last night was the end of Ganapati – a ten day long festival in honor of Ganesh, the four-armed, elephant-headed deity (often referred to locally as Ganapati).

In Mumbai this is, by far, the most exciting festival (and in India, there is plenty of competition).

Essentially, every family buys a plaster statue of Ganesh and keeps it among incense, oil lamps, garlands of jasmine and marigolds, and various other pooja items (religious offerings). Local neighborhoods, politicians, and businesses sponsor large, temporary temples around the city where an immense Ganapati is kept, and people can visit and worship for free.

These temples are the most impressive – the streets are lined with lights (a la Christmas style), music is blasted (only Ganesh’s favorite tunes), and firecrackers are omnipresent (as usual).

From my flat on the 11th floor, the lights were pretty impressive.

But once you get to ground level, the lights were blocked by the advertisements…commercialism is king.

The makeshift temples are constructed with raw wood and rope, and covered with cloth to produce the appearance of a fantastic structure. This was the main temple built last year below my apartment building.

This year, they went for something a little more subtle – a Sai Baba-themed temple.

The portrait in the center of the old man in white is Sai Baba, a 19th century saint from the region. He is thought to have been a Hindu that grew up studying under a Muslim Sufi, influencing his universal approach to religion. Sai Baba is still revered by both Muslims and Hindus, and is probably the most popular figure in Mumbai.

This temple was the one at the center of the lights I could see below my flat, complete with vendors selling toys and balloons to the kids waiting in line.

This amazing golden temple (again, only a temporary structure built from sticks, rope, and cloth) had a waterfall inside.

Around the corner, another makeshift temple.

Yesterday, in the early evening, the final processions began. On the last day, the Ganesh statues are placed on the back of a large truck and escorted, with all the pomp and circumstance required for a popular deity, to the nearest body of water (in the case of our neighborhood, a pond). These large gatherings have a sense of community (and safety) that seems to be lacking in the U.S. – there is no alcohol, no fighting, and no trouble. Just people having fun.

The parade of celebrants leading the way is slow-going, loud, festive, and always accompanied by drums, cowbells, and cymbals.

And, of course, firecrackers…

This parade had a line of young men in their Gandhi caps and dhotis playing cymbals in honor of Ganesh.

There was also a few young warriors on horseback leading the way. The kid in the center is supposed to be Shivaji, a 17th century Marathi general who enjoys royal status in Maharashtra.

At the back of the procession was the Ganapati – this one is from the Sai Baba temple. People on the back of the trucks hand out free prasad (sweets or food that contains the deity’s blessing).

Along the parade route toward the pond the crowds gather, including those throwing pink powder that ends up covering anyone around, including the drummers (apologies – some photos are blurry because it was getting dark…).

This Ganapati is a mix between Shiva and Ganesh.

At the end of the parade route is the pond, where, after a final prayer, brave young men float out to the center on inner-tubes with the Ganesh statues and submerse them in the water forever.

Thanks to my partner in crime, Serendenstudios.com, for some of the photos.

Wil Robinson
AWOP contributing editor, international
Author of International Political Will
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