Let me preface this review by saying, I’m really glad chef John Joyner has opened his flagship soul food restaurant, Chameleon DJ. He’s got a great story, and he’ll share it readily. Actually, if you want to know his story you can watch this highly informative Youtube video.
Chef Joyner is a sweet man who clearly puts all the love in his heart into his food. He feels soul food should have soul, and I can get with that. The woman behind the counter greeted me warmly, as if we had known each other for years. She welcomed my questions and gave me the run-down. Their buffet-style menu items are bare bones soul, from the collard greens to the fried chicken to the mac n’ cheese. I did notice a substantial vegan option: stewed tofu with tomatoes, onions and eggplant. I wouldn’t spend money on that, but who knows what those vegans will eat? At least Joyner knows his market and he’s making an effort to connect with it.
They boast a bend towards localism, particularly in their side veggies (but not so much the meat and fish options). Indeed, the corn tasted fresh, bright and sweet, with buttery overtones and a pleasant snap. This corn has never seen the inside of an aluminum can or freezer.
I loved my white rice with gravy. I’m a newcomer to the rice and gravy phenomenon you Southerners seem to enjoy, trying to make it an equal substitute for mashed potatoes. Normally, I fight the urge to push it aside and ask for the other white starch, but at Chameleon I found the rice to be the perfect texture and the gravy complimented so successfully that I didn’t miss my mashed potato mountain. Their kale greens never slid into soggy brown cud territory, instead they maintained their bright green color and actually passed for health food. I even had to add salt! (which I always prefer to overly salted greens). But the crown jewel of this meal was Chameleon’s fried chicken. I’m smitten with this crispy, juicy tidal wave of succulence and tenderness. I declare Chameleon’s fried chicken a phenomenon worth your time and money.
Which brings me to my one major beef with Chameleon’s brave venture: The price. A soul food vegetable lunch platter for $9? A fried chicken lunch with 2 sides for about $9? I found the prices to be a little uncomfortably steep for my soul, especially when the all-you-can-eat gourmet lunch buffet at Mela costs about the same, but with a much better value. My recommendation is they should create a different lunch menu and try to keep it under $8 or so, and charge less for the all-veggie platter. Then again, if their commitment to local produce keeps their prices a little over the norm, I could get behind that.
Their cornbread muffins were too dry and crumbly, and oddly packed with cinnamon. While I nearly confused my muffin mid-bite for a mouth full of sugary sand, I would try it again another day before making a final judgment call. Overall, I think Chameleon is making a great tasting, heartfelt endeavor to bring one man’s dream of traditional home cooking to Asheville. He simply wants us to feel good, full and happy, and that’s exactly how I felt.
-SheWhoEats
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